In January 2020 I posted about finishing a painfully long route at the climbing gym, graded 5.10a; the next month I finished an equally long 5.10b. The month after that, the world shut down, and I haven't climbed consistently since then.
In the interim, the climbing gym personnel completely changed over: new manager, new route-setters. Somewhere in there they decided collectively that their old grades had been too soft, so a route that used to get a 5.8 rating would now be a 5.7 or perhaps a 5.6. A 5.6 rating is supposed to mean it's beginner-friendly, but it got a lot harder to find easy routes.
Also in the interim, I started lifting weights and added a fair amount of bulk to my frame. (Seriously, you guys: I tried on Marie's blazer after she said, "But my shoulders are much bigger than yours," and I couldn't move my arms AT ALL. I needed, like, a sausage-stuffing machine to pour myself into those sleeves. Her shoulders are not actually bigger than mine, even though she is 8 inches taller than I am.) The muscle is an advantage, but at the same time it's harder to move a heavier body up the wall. This is a tension Joe has often talked about: wanting to build muscle for lifting, wanting to stay light for climbing.
The result of all this was that my sense of what I could and couldn't do at the climbing gym came unmoored. Was I struggling on a route labeled 5.7 because it corresponded to a 2019 5.9 route? Or because it was set by a new employee with no clue what it's like to be a middle-aged climber with a 66-inch wingspan? Or because [self-critical thoughts redacted here, though they remain very loud in my brain] and I should just give up?
In January 2023 I decided to buy an annual membership, and I've been climbing every week with Pete. I would put the humbling:pleasant ratio at about 65:35, because he keeps nudging me to do hard things. But I think I am beginning to see some progress.
We have been doing more bouldering than we used to, climbing shorter routes with no ropes. I do not love the idea of jumping down from holds 15 feet in the air, even though there are mats on the floor, so part of the issue for me is mental. Also, though, the boulder problems are hard.
Before the pandemic I could often but not always climb V2 boulders (I don't know why they have two different systems for rating difficulty) and I was just starting to do V3s. But when I started climbing again this year, the V2s felt entirely out of reach.
Pete has been super-patient with me, giving me both encouragement and beta (climber-speak for step-by-step explanations of how to get from Point A to Point B). He can propel his body across the wall with a combination of control and grace that seems impossible for this 52-year-old body to imitate. "Put your left foot there," he told me today. "My LEFT foot?" I asked him skeptically. "Your left foot," he said again, with more patience than I deserve. And do you know, after a few false starts I sent my first post-COVID V2 route.
"Now try the green one," he urged me. The green one felt ridiculous two weeks ago. Imagine putting one foot on a surface that's at hip height, and then standing up on that foot with minimal upper-body support. Like, say you have a light switch you can hold with one hand, but mostly you have to push with your bent leg without losing your balance. Hard, right? Pete and I have this recurring conversation at the climbing gym: he says, "now stand up on your foot," and I say, "I can't," because my legs don't really work like that here in my sixth decade. (There's a similar maneuver in this video (0:57-1:01), but I have two solid handholds there.)
"Hm," he said, looking again at the route. "You could also put get both hands on the next hold and pull up instead of pushing up." This is not a move that 2020 Jamie could have managed, because she did not have the upper-body strength for it, but it worked well for 2023 Jamie. And it felt really satisfying to finish a second tough boulder problem in one session after weeks of frustration.
Hm, now that I have written all this out I am thinking it is unlikely to be as interesting to anyone else as it is to me. But I want to remember the sensation of pulling myself up to that fat green hold: effortful but doable. I spent a lot of the session thinking tailspinny thoughts. I told myself I was too tired, inadequately fueled. I was a little shaky when I tackled the green route for the last time, and the voice in my head said, "What if you FALL and HIT YOUR HEAD?"
The voice in my head is not very likely to say "what if you finish the route and feel really pleased with yourself?" But that's what actually happened.
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